Introduction
The Ford F-100 1956 is not only a truck, but a rolling piece of Americana. To fans and restorers, it is a high point of post-war design, a splendid stew of hardcore utility and early automobile style. Its aggressive nature, smooth curves, and historic attributes have stamped it as one of the most popular classic Ford trucks ever. However, the process of owning and restoring one of these legends has a special part, which is finding high-quality and properly fitting Ford truck parts.
Decades later, the process of getting an old F-100 back to its previous condition or turning it into a restomod is bound by choices. Whether your new project uses the biggest body panel or the smallest interior screw, quality of chosen Ford truck parts will determine the final result, the dependability and the worthiness of your new project.
This is a guide that is going to be with you as your trusted co-pilot on the adventure. Together we will sort out the variables of this particular model year we will examine all the major systems on the vehicle and give you the information you need to choose the proper parts so that your time, money and passion go into the making of a truck that you can take pride in and enjoy all the years to come.
Understanding the 1956 Ford F-100’s Unique Parts Needs
Unless you know why the 1956 model is so special and so particular, you can hardly be in a position to purchase the right parts. Not only is the 56 F-100 a unique truck in many ways, because most of the classic vehicles use some part of the same parts in more than one year, it is also essential to gain deeper insight into its peculiarities as part of restorers who work on it.
The “One-Year-Only” Body and Cab Design
The single most important element behind the parts specificity of the 1956 F-100 is the single-year-only cab and a number of other crucial body characteristics. Although it is in the second series of the F-Series trucks (1953-1956), this final model year has been updated in several aspects by Ford, making it different.
- Wraparound Windshield: The most distinctive feature is the Wraparound Windshield. The first and only truck in this generation to have a full wrap-around (or panoramic) windshield, the 56 model required a modification of the A-pillar and a brand new dash to fit the new windshield shape.
- Vertical A-Pillars: The door pillars were made vertical in order to have the new windshield, and this changed the whole prospect of the cab. That way, the door, door glass, and vent windows of 1953-55 models are interchangeable.
- Optional Larger Rear Window: A larger rear window, wraparound elaborating over its predecessors, was also offered, and necessitated special glass and seals.
- Unique Grille and Emblems: The ’56 has a unique grille that has head lamps that have been mounted above the middle bar. The hood emblems were also transformed, and the emblem of V-8 is distinctive of this year.
This particularity implies that when you are buying a piece of cab-related unit, e.g,. glass, seals, dashboard, and even some external trimming, you have to make sure it is specifically marked as belonging to the 1956 model.
Common Wear and Rust Areas to Prioritize
They are vulnerable areas where rust and wear and tear exact their price, as on any vehicle that is over 65 years of age, the F-100 has had its own weak points. These are the areas you should be focusing on first when making your initial assessment, so that you can put into place a realistic project plan and budget.
- Cab Corners: The inner and outer cab corners, right behind the doors, are well-known trappers of moisture and the inside-out rusted corners.
- Floor Pans and Cab Support: Years of wet boots and rusted seals can rust out the floor supported by cab supports, particularly in the area under the feet of a driver and the transmission hump. The supporting cabs are also prone to corrosion, and this degrades structural integrity.
- The lower fenders and doors: The Back of the front wheels and the bottom parts of the doors are the places that are most likely to rust.
- Running Boards and Bed: The running boards of the step side are particularly vulnerable to rotting and physical degeneration, together with the use of the wooden bed planks of the truck.
Fixing these places sometimes necessitates full substitution of panels, so the quality and fitment of these reproduction parts is not just of paramount importance, but it is critical.
Body Panels and Exterior Components
The exterior is what defines your F-100’s personality. Whether you’re aiming for a factory-fresh look or a custom build, the quality of your body panels is non-negotiable.
Replacement Fenders and Quarter Panels
Fenders are often the victims of minor collisions and rust. When you buy replacements, seek panels that are stamped out of heavy-gauge steel (usually 18 gauge, as was with the originals). Look at clean stamping lines and properly positioned mounting holes.
The most important part is precision; having a badly fit fender will mess up the alignment of your hood and doors, causing awkward gaps in the panels that are very hard to correct.
Hood, Hood Springs, and Emblems
One of the main attractions is the classic clamshell hood of the F-100. Replacement hoods are to be inspected for straightness and the proper curvature. Also vital are the Ford truck hood springs and hinges. Springs that wear out would make the hood hard to open, or it could even slam closed when one did not expect it to–a safety problem.
Grilles, Bumpers, and Trim Pieces
The grille of 1956 is an artistic item. High-quality substitute products are normally chrome-plated steel products or polished stainless steel. Stainless steel is more resistant in the long term to rust, and the chrome purists favor the appearance of stainless steel. The same thing applies to bumpers, front and rear. Focus on the quality of chrome plating; a better alternative is a so-called triple chrome plating (copper, nickel, chrome) that provides the nicest shine and lasting life.
Wheels
The truck character is easily transformed by the use of wheel choices. In a reconversion, restoration, or original-style, Steel wheels should be used having proper hubcaps. The possibilities when it comes to building out a restomod or a hot rod are almost endless. Nevertheless, it is important to choose the appropriate bolt pattern (5 on 5.5 inches), as well as the back spacing, to notice that the wheels and tires fit between the fenders and the suspension, most especially when you have upgraded the brakes or the axles.
Cab and Interior Restoration Essentials
Your cab is where you will be spending most of your time, so having the cabin be comfortable, functional, and good-looking is a big reward of any restoration.
Dashboards, Gauges, and Bezels
The 1956 dashboard, as noted, is one of a kind in that the windshield is wrap-around. Complete replacement dashes are obtainable in case yours is damaged. The instrumentation is up to you: you can make do as you still have an original instrumentation, or you could go electronic. Crisply chromed quality reproduction gauge bezels have the ability to immediately improve the look of a fatigued dash.
Door Panels, Arm Rests, and Hardware
Soft interior parts get a battering as years pass by. Replacement door panels can be with many materials, not only pressed board but also completely upholstered panels. The little details in the form of hardware, such as window cranks, door knobs, and armrests are the places to be handled in your interior. High-quality replacements will be well-textured and long-lasting, which is part of a luxurious experience.
Seats, Upholstery, and Flooring
Vintage sitters with original bench seats can be re-foamed and reupholstered to have a vintage effect. There are complete kits in full upholstery, and they duplicate the original patterns and materials. The floor can either be a utility-style rubber mat or a complete carpeting kit with sound deadening. A good kit will be pre-molded according to the shape of the floor of the F-100 to fit perfectly.
Essential Engine Parts and Upgrades
A good engine is key to your truck, whether it is a rebuilt Y-block V8 or a modern powerplant replacement.
Gaskets, Seals, and Mounting Kits
Old gaskets should never be reused. A full package of gaskets is a good investment in all engine work. Gaskets used in modern cars are much better seals and long-lasting than the original rope or cork seals, with modern gasket materials, such as multi-layer steel (MLS) head gaskets, high-temperature silicone valve cover gaskets, etc.
Another isolation system is the engine and transmission mounting kits, which are also important in the isolation of vibration and drivetrain alignment.
Radiators and Cooling Systems
Any engine, whether classic or not, has an adversary known as overheating. The primary radiators were at most of the time, low-end even in their fresher state. An excellent reliability upgrade is the replacement with a modern-looking aluminum radiator. Get units that have at least a 2-row 1-inch tube and preferably a factory-installed transmission cooler in automatic applications. Make sure that the radiator is a direct fit to the F-100 to ease the installation process.
Transmission and Drivetrain Components
Getting the power from the engine to the wheels reliably is paramount.
Transmission Mounts and Covers
Clunking sounds as well as difficulty in shifting can be brought about by a worn transmission mount, and even breakage of the driveshaft. It is a cheap yet essential component to get replaced. The transmission cover can be removed (often cut up) mostly because of the years. A good-fitting cover replacement is needed to seal the cab against fumes and noises of the road.
Clutch Kits and Linkage Assemblies
With manual type transmissions, a new clutch kit comprised of the pressure plate, clutch disc, and the throw-out bearing is an absolute requirement during a major overhaul. Check the clutch linkage assembly to see if the bushings are worn or the rods are bent, which can cause one to have a floating too too-hard clutch pedal feel.
Suspension and Steering Upgrades
The original suspension was of a 1950s work truck. No more ride and handling problems is something that can be added in modern upgrades, and you will be glad to have your classic F-100 responding smoothly in the present-day traffic.
Leaf Springs and Shock Absorbers
The leaf springs are probably sagging near 70 years old. New leaf spring packs can be fitted to regain lost ride height and load capacity in the truck. To deal with this better, it is recommended to use springs of a slightly higher rate or de-arched design to bring the stance down. They can be paired up with the new gas-filled shock absorbers, which will give a lot of improved absorbing effects and cornering equilibrium over the original hydro-absorbers.
Power Steering Conversion Kits
Flying an F-100 with a typical manual steering mechanism is an exercise, particularly at low speeds. Power steering conversion is quite popular and well worth the upgrade. There are kits that come with modern rack-and-pinion assemblies or power steering boxes that have been modernized. The most accurate and up-to-date steering character will be provided with a rack-and-pinion conversion.
Front and Rear Axle Components
In case of a stock restoration, only original axles should be rebuilt, including new bearings and new seals. In the case of a restomod, the gold standard would be upgrading the entire front axle to an independent front suspension system (IFS), like a Mustang II-type crossmember. This gives better driving controls, improved braking choices, and ride. In the back, the common upgrade is to replace it with a Ford 9-inch, which has limited production of gear ratios, but is exceptionally strong.
Brake System Restoration
The most vital safety system on all the systems on your truck is the brakes. It is not a field to skimp in.
Master Cylinders and Brake Lines
The single-reservoir master cylinder used to be a big Achilles ‘ heel, since a broken brake line means you cannot generate any braking power. Another important safety upgrade to a two-reservoir master cylinder, splits the front and rear braking circuits. Simultaneously, change all the rubber brake hoses and check the hard lines, checking to see whether they are corroding and changing when necessary.
Drum and Disc Brake Conversions
Although the original four-wheel drum brakes could be designed to be effective when in a perfect condition, it has an issue of fading and pulling. There is probably nothing better and safer performance-wise that you can do than a front disc brake conversion kit. The stopping power improvement, temperature control, and overall performance in any conditions are significantly improved by these kits.
| Brake System Upgrade Comparison | Stock Drum Brakes | Front Disc Brake Conversion |
| Stopping Power | Adequate | Excellent |
| Fade Resistance | Poor to Fair | Excellent |
| Wet Weather Performance | Poor | Good to Excellent |
| Maintenance | Frequent adjustments needed | Self-adjusting |
| Cost | Low (to rebuild) | Moderate |
| Safety | Basic | High |
Electrical System Components
The original electric (6-volt) system can be temperamental. A system upgrade to 12 volts is standard, and is advisable in case you intend to install any of the modern accessories, such as a high-powered stereo, electric fan, as well as brighter lights.
Lighting: Headlights, Taillights, and Indicators
By replacing them with modern halogen or LED headlights, visibility and safety at night will be drastically increased.
Good-quality reproduction taillight assemblies and indicator lights are what ensure that other drivers can see you. The right items to buy are the ones that have UV-stable plastic lenses to ensure that the lenses do not fade out or become brittle.
Wiper Motors and Switches
The ancient vacuum-operated wiper motors are known to be pathetically weak. An electric wiper conversion kit is one of the more refined modifications, which is not difficult, and it offers dependable, steady performance at any engine speed. Make sure that the new motor and switch you source are compatible with the voltage of your truck (6V or 12V).
OEM vs. OER vs. Aftermarket: Making the Right Choice
When searching parts, you will come across these three terms. They are the main points to get an idea of this decision.
- OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): These are brand-new, factory original pieces that were produced by Ford or its parts suppliers in older times. It is frequently referred to as New Old Stock (NOS) and is the Holy Grail of parts. On the one hand, they are the ideal parts to use in a concours-level restoration, and on the other hand, they are scarce, aggressively priced, and are often sold without any warranty.
- OER (Original Equipment Reproduction): This is the jackpot of most high-quality restorations. The third-party manufacturers produce OER parts, matching or surpassing the original factory fit, finish, and functions. One of the trademarks of a high-quality OER manufacturer is that modern methods are employed to guarantee that their components are compliant with the original design.
- Aftermarket: It is a general group. It may consist of cost-effective, common off-the-shelf replacement components that are not always of the same fit and finish as OER components. Custom and performance accessories (such as suspension parts or custom grille) are also included, which are intended to alter, instead of match, the original truck. The quality at this level differs immensely, ranging from outstanding to inadmissible.
OER parts provide an optimum combination of quality, availability, and cost in providing a quality and authentic restoration. A combination of OER body parts and well-made aftermarket performance parts can be the best solution to a restomod.
Why Choosing the Right Manufacturer Matters: The Sunway Autoparts Advantage
Having gone through luxury ingredients that your 1956 F-100 requires, the last and most crucial ones are: whom do you trust to create them? This is how a real manufacturer can be differentiated from a reseller. Although at Sunway Autoparts we do not just sell parts for classic vehicles like your Ford and Chevy GMC, we have since 2007 been developing and producing them and have set a standard in quality that is palpable.
We eliminate the two biggest headaches of any F-100 restorer:
- Making Unavailable Parts: What do you do when there is no part? We originated it. The in-house department can design and make custom parts out of nothing. It might be that your project demands a particular part that is otherwise difficult to obtain, in large quantities, on your Ford; in this case, we offer you a total service, from design to despatch, and make the difficulty that vexes you a solution.
- Delivering a Quality that Endures: A component is only as excellent as the procedure underneath it. We also take complete control of production. In chrome parts, we employ a precise plastic die steel casting method, and then when it comes to the finishing, we deposit it strong chrome plating to give it a long-lasting, brilliant finish. Whether it is a new replacement or a remanufactured spare part, we are committed to the OE-quality of our products, covering but not limited to the likes of headlights, the toil of gaskets, wiper motors, and ignition coils.
By selecting Sunway Autoparts, you select the supplier who has demonstrated the supply chain capability as well as a team of professionals committed to your project’s success. You get the direct-from-manufacturer benefits of reasonable prices, fast shipping, and the confidence that your 1956 F-100 is being rebuilt with parts made by experts who stand behind their work.
Conclusion
Rebuilding an old Ford truck, such as the F-100, is not that simple, a mechanical exercise, but rather an exercise of preservation and of passion. It entails a myriad of minor choices that lead to an ultimate and breathtaking end. As we have seen, success depends on a thorough knowledge of the particular needs of the truck, coupled with the willingness to obtain quality components for all the systems: body, brakes, engine, and electricals.
The most crucial thing about the outcome of your project will be your purchase of the Ford truck parts. Whatever you choose to do, whether you go with a skillful restoration with the best OER parts or you go with an individual custom restomod with all the performance modifications done, do not settle for shortcuts to save money. Use it as a guide, ask questions, and associate yourself with suppliers and manufacturers that are also obsessed with excellence. Your fabulous F-100 has been waiting like that for decades. Provide it with the quality bits that it needs, and it will provide you with the drive, an experience, and give you a sense of satisfaction that truly never gets old.
